The men's dress shirt: how to choose the perfect fit
Collar, cuff, fabric and cut: the complete guide to choosing the dress shirt that fits well and never goes out of style.
The dress shirt is the foundation of men’s elegance — and the piece where fit matters most. A shirt that fits well conveys care; a poorly fitted one ruins even the best suit.
The points of a perfect fit
Shoulders
The shoulder seam should end exactly at the edge of your shoulder. This is the hardest adjustment to correct — start here.
Torso
Fitted to the body, but without pulling at the buttons. You should be able to “pinch” a few centimeters of fabric at the side — no more, no less.
Sleeves and cuff
The cuff should end at the base of the thumb and show about 1 cm beyond the jacket sleeve.
Length
It should cover the waistband and allow you to tuck it in without coming loose when you raise your arms.
Fabrics and colors
- Cotton (poplin, oxford) is the most common and versatile.
- White and light blue are the two essentials — they go with everything.
- After that, invest in fine stripes and soft tones.
Collar
- Italian (semi-spread): versatile, with or without a tie.
- English (classic): more formal.
- Avoid wrinkled collars — use collar stays.
With or without a tie
Without a tie, leave the first button open (two at most). With a tie, button up fully and choose a collar that “hugs” the knot.
Tip: own one white and one light blue shirt with a great fit. They cover everything from work to a wedding.
The right dress shirt is an investment in elegance — and the fit is what makes all the difference.